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Top 10 Reasons to Hire a Personal Stylist or Image Consultant
Top 10 reasons to hire a Personal Stylist or Image Consultant
“The Right Fit” Editorial Published in Cool America Magazine Styled by Wall Street Stylist, Jacci Jaye
The 70’s are back in a big way this summer via large geometric prints, eye-popping colors, and large 70’s inspired belt buckles! Lulu’s at the W Hotel in Hoboken provided the perfect backdrop for Photographer Geoffrey Badner and I to play with all of the bold patterns and styles of the season.
The key to pulling off these types of looks is to not over-do it with the patterns, allowing your look to have a retro feel with a modern edge. Choose one key statement piece, such as David Harts yellow and black geometric blazer, or Marc Jacobs floral t-shirt, and allow the rest of the outfit to really show off this piece as opposed overwhelm it. These kind of bold statement pieces can be very intimidating to a lot of men, but done right, you will be the most stylish man in the room! (I promise!). An easy rule to follow when styling an outfit around a piece with a bold pattern is to choose one of the secondary colors in the pattern and integrate that color somewhere else into your look (for example: I paired David Harts yellow geometric blazer with a black Kooples shirt and white Vince Camuto pants). Yellow is such an overwhelming color that the black and white were really needed to tone down and modernize the look. You never want to match it exactly, as more often than not this will leave you looking like you are wearing a costume from the 1970’s, as opposed to modernizing a specific trend.
Another way to integrate this trend into your look is via accessories. I LOVE large belt buckles like the one on the Prada Belt that I paired with David Harts burgundy suit. Click here to read my article on my favorite large buckle luxury belts this season.
The final trend I focused on in this editorial was the huge trend of wearing white trainers with tailored pieces for a clean, fresh look. I LOVE these white Penguin trainers with gold accents, as well as these ones from Ted Baker. Every man should have a pair of basic white trainers in his wardrobe. They are fresh, clean, modern, and can go with pretty much anything. I LOVE how fresh white trainers look with outfits that are a bit more tailored and polished…………adding just enough of a casual, fashionable edge.
Why Buying a Custom Suit Makes the Most Sense
Wall Street: Welcome to Summer! Now that the weather is warming up, street fashion is becoming alive with pops of color. I had lunch with menswear designer David Hart the other day on historical Stone Street, and we spent a couple hours people watching and talking about new trends in menswear. In particular, there is a huge trend in going custom. What was once a service reserved for the very wealthy, is now officially mainstream. Long past are the days of boxy, oversized suits and shirts. Now everything is very fitted and streamlined. There is no room for error, making buying a custom suit the most economical option. Rather than pay thousands of dollars for a suit off the rack, and then having to take it to a tailor anyway, you can get a suit made exactly to your measurements for less than half the price. On top of that, you can choose EVERYTHING about it – from the fabric, to the cut, to the lapels, to the buttons, to the vents, to the color of lining and stitching…………and even customize pockets depending on your needs. With all of these customizable options, AND a perfect fit, there is absolutely no reason to buy off the rack (unless your lack of planning has you in a pinch and you need a suit for an event this week). Short of that, go custom.
CHOOSING A TAILOR FOR YOUR CUSTOM SUIT
Now that you see the HUGE value proposition of taking the step of getting a custom suit made, let me walk you through some of the things to think about before you start diving into the details. For starters, there are a million tailors and online sites offering custom suits, so much so that even deciding where to go can be a bit overwhelming. Choosing the right tailor is incredibly important. I DO NOT recommend taking your own measurements and just ordering a custom suit online, although there are plenty of companies offering this as an option. If you are going to get a custom suit made, you want it done right. Not to say that these places aren’t good (most of them are probably still better than off the rack), but you will most certainly be compromising in quality and fit. A tailor will not only be able to take your measurements, but also assess the nuances of your body and posture, which is incredibly important. Anybody can take measurements, but the true art is in the translation of the measurements. Also, unless you are a designer or mens fashion guru, you will definitely benefit from having the opinion of a professional to guide you through the process. Finding a tailor that has a bit of fashion sense is very important, as you want to walk out with a custom, modern, fashion forward suit, not a suit that looks like it belongs in the 80’s. For example, a British tailored suit is VERY different than an Italian tailored suit (British (Saville Row) is much more tailored and fitted, whereas Italian tends to be a bit more relaxed). There is no right or wrong, they are just different, and it comes down to a matter of preference. Find a tailor that fits your style sensibilities, has good customer service, and has good ratings and customer feedback. A good tailor will be a perfectionist, and will place the utmost of importance on you being 100% satisfied.
THERE ARE A MILLION CUSTOMIZABLE OPTIONS: WHERE TO BEGIN
Now that you have selected your tailor, and they have taken your measurements, it’s time to dive into the design of your custom suit. First, you will want to begin with fabric selection. Most tailors will have several price tiers of fabric, with the finer fabrics usually being the most expensive. As a general rule, if you are looking for a sturdy everyday suit, stay away from the fine fabrics. These fabrics will not only wear out faster, they will also wrinkle more. These are more for special occasions. Once you have selected your fabric, you will select the lapel type and width, jacket style (one, two, three button, double breasted), middle or side vents, pockets, buttons, and button holes. I never recommend the 3 button style, as in my opinion it is outdated and stuffy. My advice to you is to not go crazy. You want to add a bit of style, but not have it be so trendy that you won’t be able to wear it next season. I absolutely LOVE adding a contrast color button hole to 1 or 2 of the sleeve buttons, as well as a contrast under collar. This is enough to add style and say that it is custom, without being ostentatious. Next you will select your lining fabric (I LOVE contrast linings), as well as pockets. With a good tailor, the sky is the limit when it comes to interior pockets. You will also be able to select a monogram to put into the lining of your jacket, which is a nice added touch.
Once you have selected all of the options for your jacket, you will have a few decisions to make regarding the pants. The waistband can have side tab or standard belt loops, and you will be able to select pocket types for both the side pockets and the back pockets. You will also be able to select different types of fit and pleats (I’m NOT a fan of pleats), as well as whether you want a standard or cuffed hem (go standard for a more modern look).
COST
OK, the hard work is done! You’ve selected your tailor, had your measurements taken, and selected all of the options for your perfectly tailored custom suit. Now, let’s talk about how much all of this should cost. Your fabric choice will determine your base cost, but most of the options come at no additional charge. Some of the options that MIGHT be an additional charge (depending on your tailor), will be things like elbow patches, special buttons, adding a different fabric lapel, and adding special interior pockets (other than the styles offered). A good custom suit will cost you between $590-$2,000. Most of my clients have AMAZING custom suits made for between $590-$750, with the experience of having a tailor AND a fashion stylist accompany them through this process (sometimes even in the convenience of their home or office). For that price, and for that service, it is a no brainer that having a custom suit made is the way to go. If you are in the NYC area, myself and my tailor will be happy to walk you through this process.
Ties: 18 Ways to Tie a Necktie and Achieve the Perfect Knot
It’s a fact: when wearing a tie most men wear the same knot over and over again, forgetting that there are several different ways to tie a tie and add a little variation to their wardrobes. A short while ago while searching for a diagram to send to one of my clients, I came across this infographic from our friends over at “Real Men Real Style” titled “18 Ways to Tie a Necktie.” Previously I had scoured the internet and found various videos and diagrams in different places on how to tie different knots, but to find it all in one place, and have it be sooooo self explanatory – amazing! The guys at “Real Men Real Style” have broken down 18 different types of knots all in one infographic. I know when looking at this it might seem overwhelming, so start simple. I believe the “staple knots” are the “four in hand,” the “half windor,” and the “full windor.” My favorite knot, by far, is the full windsor as it is a large, even knot, and exudes a certain status and confidence. Once you master these 3 knots, I suggest trying to master a more fashionable knot such as the “Cafe Knot,” “Eldredge Tie Knot,” or the “Trinity Knot.” The 3 knots are a bit more complex, and determining which to use will really depend on the pattern of your tie as you want the knot creases to be more interesting and sophisticated rather than “busy.”
How to Tie a Bowtie
I have always had a fascination with bowties. Perhaps it’s the elegance that they exude, or the stereotype that only gentleman wear bowties, but whatever the reason, I think they are an incredibly dapper fashion accessory. That being said, all bowties are NOT created equal. A true gentleman actually knows HOW to tie a bowtie (no cheating with the pre-tied kind). Like ties, the sophistication lies in the knot, and in this case, the fullness of loops of the bowtie. There is nothing worse than a flattened bow tie that looks like it is paper thin and has been stuck in the bottom of your drawer for 10 years. Unlike ties, bow ties are a little more challenging to tie, which is why I have discovered 75% of men don’t know how to tie them. I am always amazed at how many of my clients have no idea how to tie a bow tie, but am always very eager to give them a tying lesson! Below I have included 2 videos that will walk you through tying a bow tie. The first video is from menswear designer David Hart, www.DavidHartNYC.com. Along with his full menswear collection, David has an amazing line of ties and bow ties. The second video is from Details Magazine. Before watching these videos make sure to have your bow tie and a mirror handy! It will take you a few attempts to perfect, but will be time well spent!
If you still need some clarification, our friends over at “Real Men Real Style” created this brilliant infographic that not only details how to tie a bowtie, but also breaks down styles and proportion.
Bow Ties
Bow Ties we LOVE!!!
Here are a few Bow Ties that perfectly combine colors, patterns, and textures to create modern, sophisticated looks.
Brooks Brothers